Date: Sunday f 20, 2012
Embroidery One Stitch Or Many Stitches
The first thing to be settled with regard to the choice of stitch is whether to employ one stitch throughout, or a variety of stitches.
Much will depend upon the effect desired. Good work has been done in either way, but one may safely say, in the first place, that it is as well not to introduce variety of stitch without good cause there is safety in simplicity and in the second, that stitches should be chosen to go together, in order that the work may look all of a piece. When the various stitches are well chosen, it is difficult at a glance to distinguish one from another.
A great variety of stitches in one piece of work is worrying, if not bewildering. It is as well not to use too many, to keep in the main to one or two, but not to be afraid of using a third, or a fourth, to do what the stitch or stitches mainly relied upon cannot do.
72. STITCHES IN COMBINATION.
It tends also towards simplicity of effect if you use your stitches with some system, not haphazard, and in subordination one to the other, there must be no quarrelling among them for superiority. You should determine, that is to say, at the outset, which stitch shall be employed for filling, which for outline, or which for stalks, which for leaves, and which for flowers.
Or, supposing you adopt one general stitch throughout, and introduce others, you should know why, and make up your mind to employ your second for emphasis of form, your third for contrast of texture, or for some other quite definite purpose.
It is not possible here to point out in detail the system on which the various examples illustrated have been worked, the reader must worry that out for herself. But one may just point out in passing how well the various stitches go together in some few instances.
Nothing could be more harmonious, for example, than the combination of knot, chain, and buttonhole stitches or of ladder, Oriental, herring-bone, and other stitches in Illustration 72. Again, the contrast between satin-stitch in the bird and couched cord for the clouding is most judicious, as is the knotting of the bird's crest.
Laid floss contrasts, again, admirably with couched gold, and satin-stitch with couching, where the gold is reserved mainly for outline, but on occasion serves to emphasise a detail.
73. FINE NEEDLEWORK UPON LINEN.
Couched gold and surface satin-stitch are used together again, each for its specific purpose. The harmony between applique work and couching or chain-stitch outline has been alluded to already.
A danger to be kept in view when working in one stitch only is, lest it should look like a woven textile, as it might if very evenly worked. Some kinds of embroidery seem hardly worth doing nowadays, because they suggest the loom. That may be a reason for some complexity of stitch, in which lurks that other danger of losing simplicity and breadth.
The lace-like appearance of the needlework upon fine linen in Illustration 73, results chiefly from the extraordinary delicacy with which it is done, but it owes something also to the variety of stitch and of stitch-pattern employed in it.
OUTLINE.
The use of outline in embroidery hardly needs pointing out. It is often the obvious way of defining a pattern, as, for example, where there is only a faint difference in depth of tint between the pattern and its background, in applique work it is necessary to mask the joins, and it is by itself a delightful means of diapering a surface with not too obtrusive pattern.
Allusion to the stitches suitable to outline has been made already (see stitch-groups), as well as to the colour of outlining, a propos of applique. It is difficult to overrate the importance of this question of colour in the case of outline, but there are no rules to be laid down, except that a coloured outline is nearly always preferable to a black one.
The Germans of the 16th century were given to indulging in black outlines, and you may see in their work how it hardened the effect, whereas a coloured outline may define without harshness. The Spaniards, on the other hand, realised the value of colour, and would, for example, outline gold and silver upon a dark green ground in red, with admirable effect. A double outline, for which there is often opportunity in bold work, may be turned to good account.
Among the successful combinations which come to mind is an applique pattern in yellow and white upon dark green, outlined first with gold cord, and then, next the green, with a paler and brighter green. Another is a pattern chiefly in yellow upon purple, outlined first with yellow couched with gold, and next the ground with silver. In the case of couched cord or gold, the colour of the stitching counts also.
Stitches from the edge of a leaf or what not, inwards, alternately long and short, though they form an edge to the leaf, are not properly outlining. This is rather a stopping short of solid work than outlining, though it often goes by that name.
The first condition of a good outline stitch is that it should be, as it were, supple, so as to follow the flow of the form. At the same time it should be firm. Fancy stitches look fussy, and a spikey outline is worse than none at all.
There is absolutely no substantial ground for the theory that outlines should be worked in a stitch not used elsewhere in the work. On the contrary, it is a good rule not to introduce extra stitches into the work unless they give something which the stitches already employed will not give. The simplest way is always safest.
An outline affords a ready means of clearing up edges, but it should not be looked upon merely as a device for the disguise of slovenliness. Unless the colour scheme should necessitate an outline, an embroidress, sure of her skill, will often prefer not to outline her work, and to get even the drawing lines within the pattern, by VOIDING. She will leave, that is to say, a line of ground-stuff clear between the petals of her flowers, or what not, which line, by the way, should be narrower than it is meant to appear, as it looks always broader than it is.
It is more difficult, it must be owned, thus to work along two sides of a line of ground-stuff than to work a single line of stitching, but it is within the compass of any skilled worker, and skilled workers have delighted in voiding even when their work was on a small scale necessitating fine lines of voiding.
In work on a bold scale there is no difficulty about it, and it would be remarkable that it is so seldom used, were it not that the uncertain worker likes to have a chance of clearing up ragged edges, and that voiding implies a broader and more dignified treatment of design than it is the fashion to affect.
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